Santiago
Dilapidated historic buildings have been restored and newly landscaped green spaces abound, bringing Santiago closer to its pre-pollution splendor. Plus, the urban center’s clean and efficient metro system has been expanded, making it easy to get around. Chic nightlife options are also plentiful in the Chilean capital, although the overall atmosphere is conservative by Latin American standards.
Readers’ Choice
Grand Hyatt. After a $10 million overhaul last year, the former Regency Hyatt can now claim the title of Grand. Rooms come equipped with Bang & Olufsen TVs, Yamaha hi-fi, broadband Internet and a self-adjusting power converter. The hotel has added an Italian restaurant, Senso, and a new spa, AKO. Even the outdoor pool, complete with waterfall, got a facelift. Rooms start at $250.
http://www.santiago.grand.hyatt.com/
Sleeping
Hotel Ritz Carlton. This is the brand’s only property in South America, and a relative newcomer to the local hotel scene. Situated in the fashionable El Golf neighborhood, the Ritz is hugely popular with the business crowd. Executive rooms come with separate work/living areas and are wired for high-speed Internet. The Bloody Mary Oyster Shooters at Wine 365, just off the lobby, will blow you away. Rooms start at $275.
www.ritzcarlton.com
Marriott. Set in Santiago’s tallest building, the Marriott offers snow-capped Andes views near the tree-lined suburb and business district of Las Condes. Rooms start at $229.
www.marriott.com
Boulevard Suites. These 50 spacious suites boast dark wood floors, fully equipped granite kitchens, wraparound mountain views and grocery service. Breakfast, high-speed Internet and use of the fitness facilities at the adjacent Marriott are included. Rooms start at $165.
www.boulevardsuites.cl
Hotel Plaza San Francisco. Close to downtown and bang opposite the financial district, this elegant hotel exudes old-fashioned charm. The lobby has long been the haunt of local bigwigs, and the award-winning Bristol Restaurant is an added bonus. Rooms start at $129.
www.plazasanfrancisco.cl
Relaxing
Hacienda Los Lingues. Step back in time at this charming 18-room hacienda just an hour south of Santiago, in Chile’s wine country. Antique furniture and ancestral paintings fill the country inn, which is a working ranch owned by one family for four centuries. The activities on offer are endless, from rafting to fly-fishing, and dinner is served on the veranda. Rooms start at $228.
www.loslingues.cl
Eating
Rivoli. Smooth sauces, fresh pasta and homemade mozzarella are on hand at this masterful Italian restaurant (Nueva de Lyon 77, Providencia, Tel: 56 2 231 7969).
Infante 51. Seafood – grilled calamari, squid-ink risotto and local rarities such as cojinova – is the specialty. No heavy sauces, no fussiness, the stars here are the fish. The setting: a stripped down interior of an old mansion (Jose Manuel Infante 51, Providencia, Tel: 56 2 264 3357).
Etniko. Modern décor sets off an Asian-inspired menu of sushi, tempura and stir-fry (Constitución 172, Bellavista, Tel: 56 2 732 0119).
Puro Chile. This is the place to sample nouveau Chilean cooking. Tucked away on a quiet street, this bar/restaurant/gallery draws the artsy crowd. Try the Parmesan oysters or river-crab pie, and save room for the Chardonnay ice cream (Maipú 363, Barrio Brasil, Tel: 56 2 681 9355).
Drinking
One of the current hotspots in the Providencia neighborhood is Mucca (Avenida Italia 830), where you can catch local celebrities lounging on aquamarine couches. At Resto-Bar-Club Cavala (Las Condes 9177), young professionals nibble on sushi and twirl fondue forks, while the beautiful crowd flocks to Bar Liguria (Luis Thayer Ojeda 019) for top-notch food and a boisterous vibe. Elsewhere, the bohemian buzz is at Ébano, in the up-and-coming Nuñoa quarter (Manuel de Salas 123) and in the mostly passé Bellavista bar scene, El Toro (Loreto 33) remains an ever-classy evening choice and a prime spot for Sunday brunch.
Shopping
Lapis lazuli stones are what you want. For the best selection, head to Santiago’s Bellavista neighborhood, where boutiques brim with the semi-precious blue gems crafted into enchanting pieces of jewelry.
Downtime
Wine Tasting. The vineyards of the Colchagua Valley can be reached with an easy day excursion from Santiago. The Concha y Toro label has opened the doors of its Pirque Casona and Cellar, where Chile’s largest winery got started, to visitors. Tour the Don Melchor Concha y Toro Casona park, check out the wine barrels and sample the reds and whites – then take a few bottles with you. Tours can be booked at
www.conchaytoro.com