how

To get there
The Mariscal Sucre International Airport is located six miles north of Quito. A taxi from the airport to Quito’s new town will cost around $5, and $6 to the old town. Visas are required for stays longer than 90 days for US, EU and Latin American citizens. Visitors must pay a $25 departure tax at the airport.

To Get Around
Most government offices are in the old town, while the modern northern sector houses the major businesses, banks and embassies.

where

To Stay
In Quito, we recommend the Swissôtel Quito (Av. 12 de Octubre 1820 and Luis Cordero, Tel: 593-2-2566-497, www.swissotel.com) that has an Amrita spa.

JW Marriott (Ave. Orellana 1172 Y Av., Tel: 593 22-972-000, www.marriotthotels.com) is located along the famous Amazonas Ave. within walking distance to the new and exclusive financial district. The renowned historical center with museums, monasteries and churches is only 10 miles from the hotel.

To Eat
La Viña (Isabel la Católica and Cordero. Tel. 256-6033) is one of the best restaurants in Quito and serves excellent Italian dishes. For seafood, Mare Nostrum (Foch 172 and Tamayo, Tel. 252-8686) stands out for its outstanding and creative ways of serving fish. Noteworthy is the hip and trendy Sake (Paul Rivet and Eduardo Whimper) for sushi.

To Drink
Head to the Lobby Bar at the Swissôtel for a good happy hour and sushi bar.

To Unwind
Among Quito’s colonial buildings, San Francisco Church (Mideros and Imbabura), which dates from 1534, is particularly interesting. It is thought to be the first religious building constructed by the Spanish in South America.

what

To Buy
Montecristi Panama hats. Visit Marcel G. Creaciones (Roca 766 between Amazonas y 9 de Octubre) for the largest selection. Ecuador also produces lovely hand-carved objects made from tagua, a nut known as vegetable ivory, and shigras, bags made from the agave plant. The best store for crafts is Tianguez (Tel: 230-609), whose proceeds benefit indigenous populations, is located underneath San Francisco Church.