Quito
Quito is split between the Old Town – a colonial district with government buildings – and the modern city with the best hotels and restaurants.
Sleeping
JW Marriott. The Marriott made a big splash when it opened because of its excellent service and its good location. The business center, while often crowded, has a staff that goes the extra mile. West-facing rooms offer the best views. Rooms start at $160. www.marriott.com
Relaxing
Hacienda San Augustín. History meets style at this gorgeous hacienda 50 miles south of Quito, in the shadow of the world’s highest active volcano, Cotopaxi. The main house was built in the 1550s on an Inca site. (There’s an original Inca wall in the dining room.) Lounge in front of the fire amid country-house decor or jump on a horse (or bike) and head toward Cotopaxi. The walls are covered in delightful murals by Chilean artist Manuel Araya. www.incahacienda.com
Eating
Mea Culpa. Government movers and shakers favor this restaurant in the former archbishop’s palace. A great Old Town venue overlooking the Plaza Grande, this eatery boasts both good food and service. Make a reservation if you want a window table. There’s a “business casual” dress code. At Venezuela Oeste 4-22 on the Plaza de la Independencia (Grande), phone: 59-3-2295-1190.
La Viña. This unpretentious spot is a real find – some of the best food in the capital. The menu is international-Italo-Ecuadorian and the price tag is more than gentle. Isabel la Católica at Cordero; phone: 59-3-2256-6033.
Drinking
Sunami is the new minimalist drinking spot for the capital’s chic and beautiful. Busy bar, plenty of chatter and outstanding cocktails at Francisco Salazar 116 at the corner of Tamayo. There’s nothing new about El Pobre Diablo, except that the young artsy crowd has discovered it. They’re out in full force from Monday to Wednesday. The rest of the week, the crowds come to hear the best jazz, blues and live music in Quito; at Isabel la Católica E12-06 and Galavis.
Guayaquil
Guayaquil has transformed. The Malecón 2000 project that gave the shabby waterfront a long-overdue facelift has infused new energy into Ecuador’s money-making metropolis.
Sleeping
Hotel Ramada. The selling point is a prime position overlooking the Malecón 2000 – the city’s riverfront promenade – and within walking distance of the action. Service is good and there’s a modest pool on the top floor. Rooms begin at $135. www.hotelramada.com
Oro Verde. Fine facilities, well-equipped conference and meeting rooms and decades of experience have given the Oro Verde a reputation as the city’s best business hotel. Rooms from $150. www.oroverdehotels.com
Eating
El Caracol Azul. A legend in Guayaquil, some rate the Caracol Azul as the best seafood spot in the country. Service is faultless. At 9 de octubre 1918 and Los Ríos; phone: 59-3-4-228-0461.
Blu. This is the hippest place in a town that takes hip seriously. Blu’s murals to Bacchus make a fitting prelude to culinary indulgence. The menu is Mediterranean fused with Pacific Latin. Víctor Emilio Estrada 701 at Ficus in the Urdesa neighborhood; phone: 59-3-4-288-4954.
Drinking
Hiding out in a restored house in the bohemian Las Peñas district, La Paleta draws a convivial crowd from Wednesday through Saturday. (It’s closed the rest of the week.) It’s found at Numa Pompilio Llona #174. The city’s trendiest converge at La Proa on the Malecón 2000 adjacent to Calle Julián Coronel.
Shopping
How about a chess set carved from the vegetable ivory called tagua or a fine-quality Panama hat (which are misnamed – they’re really from Ecuador) or naïf paintings by the artists of Pujili? Although crafts abound in Ecuador, you get extra points for shopping at Sinchi Sacha. This non-profit foundation benefits 130 families directly and supports several sister institutions. There’s a shop on Plaza San Francisco in the Old Town and another at the Mirador de Guápulo. www.sinchisacha.org